Model Building

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Prior to starting out building the full-sized project, I first decided to build the mini-cup as a balsa model. Never having built any kind of model before, this proved to be somewhat of an adventure <g> I did find however that drawing up the plans in TurboCad and then printing them out at 1/12 scale allowed me to paste the plans to the balsa-wood and then cut out directly.

Here is a log of the events and picture of the results (be kind).

Date	Event	Time Used	$$$
06-Aug-00	Ordered Plans - $15US		22.50
16-Aug-00	Plans arrived!
16-Aug-00	Start drawing plans in Turbo Cad for making model	2
17-Aug-00	Buy balsa - 1/16" for model - 1pc 4" X 3', 1pc 3" X 3'		7.00
17-Aug-00	Study plans over and over and try to understand them.	2
18-Aug-00	Update drawings to 1:12 scale and print for lofting	0.5
18-Aug-00	Cut out hull, deck and sides for model	0.75
19-Aug-00	Glue cockpit and mast box (something doesn't look right here)	1
19-Aug-00	Price out parts, put out word for mast. Marine plywood available at Welbeck Sawmill for 81.99 / sheet
19-Aug-00	Glue hull sides on - SNAP - aft cockpit bulkhead was in wrong position. Glue in transom	1
20-Aug-00	Glue on deck and make sail out of plastic shopping bag	2
25-Aug-00	Compare model to plans and make corrections to drawings - Transom angle, forward bulkhead angle.	1
26-Aug-00	Print out drawings on 110lb card stock. Laminate two sheets together using glue stick. Make new model using this material and 1/16" X 1/16" balsa for stringers. Put model together. Swear. Take aft bulkhead out and put it right side up. Use glue stick and transparent tape for adhesives. Use 1/16" balsa for rudder and centreboard. Much nicer. Paint centreboard and hull with left-over paint.	3
26-Aug-00	Cover the model with papier mache in an attempt to fair the hull and deck and make the model more solid. Bad idea. I ended up with a lumpy model that would not sand easily.	2
Model Total		15.25	29.50

Things that I learned:

Study the plans until you are SURE where things go

Do dry fits on real boat

Mark centre lines of fore and aft bulkheads prior to cutting

Use LOTS of clamps. On the model I used paperclips to hold the balsa to the card stock and bulldog clips on the card stock to bend the curves around.

Take your time and double check everything

Things I didn't do on the model

No halyard

No additional floatation

No mechanism on rudder

No mainsheet

Model #1
- all balsa - no centreboard - no rudder - does not fit together

At this angle it doesn't look too bad. You can't see the gaps between the sides and the deck or the poorly placed transom. That's my son Trueman who is eagerly awaiting the full-sized version.
Again pictures can be deceptive. There's a HUGE gap on the port side between the side and the deck at the aft bulkhead (I put it in upside down). You can also see that the rear of the cockpit is shaped wrong and that the deck doesn't meet the hull sides well at the front.

Model #2 - 110lb card stock laminated with 2 layers. 1/16" balsa for stringers, centreboard and rudder.
Here's the second model covered with papier mache. As you can see, I was checking out to see what different paint colours would look like. I think I like the black dagger-board.	Here's a larger shot of the model. No, the rudder is not actually attached, it's just sitting there. I can't figure out how to mount it on the model and I'm really not too concerned about it at this time. You can't tell from the model though, but the mast broke the mount inside the hull. I think I will reinforce this in the real thing.

DISCLAIMER: Because the construction of any boat is dependent on factors of materials and craftsmanship that are beyond my control, I can accept no responsibility for any item constructed based on information found on this web-site.

For more information, contact andrew@floatingbear.ca

Last Updated October 31, 2005