Modification |
Complete / Comments |
Use 3/4" plywood rather than 1X dimensional lumber for the keel.
This is intended to simplify the build and to end up with a much more dimensionally
stable keel. |
Completed - 13-Nov-2005
The layers don't absolutely line up but I probably would have had this difficulty with any
material used. I was able to get all three layers out of two pieces of plywood with
a bit left over. The middle layer ended up being made of 5 pieces with the outer
layers made from 3. |
Use internal wing-nuts on lower pintle and bow eye. |
Completed - 13-Nov-2005
Looks good so far. Based on a discussion on the BYYB I made the hole for the bow eye
oversized and filled the cavity with construction adhesive. This should prevent any
water/wood direct contact. I'll need to do something similar to the pintle. |
Add eye-bolt to stern for anchoring and mooring. This should be
more accessible and solid than a deck-mounted cleat. |
Completed - 11-Mar-2006 - removed later. It was in the way of
mounting the stern light. Two deck mounted cleats were installed with #10 screws. |
Laminate mast out of three layers - 2 2X4 and 1 1/2" board |
The upper part of the mast ended up being slightly larger than the
bottom. It also has a bit of a twist to it which I suspect is more to do with me
using salvaged lumber than anything else. |
Metal protective strip on the bottom of the keel |
A pain to put countersunk screws in, but reassuring when heading for the
launch ramp at speed with no way to stop. |
Hatch cover on aft deck |
Absolutely essential - otherwise it's practically impossible for a
middle-aged fat guy to get to the steering. |
Run lines down shrouds |
Easier setup for hardware, need to make sure blocks are oriented properly
to prevent them from binding. |
Hard cockpit cover |
Keeps the snow out and much of the rain. Still need to cover the
boat though. |
Foam board in forepeak |
Can't HAVE too much floatation. |
Toe rails |
A "must have" - gives you someplace to tie to / grab on to
everywhere in the boat. |