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Make the pieces

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httDate Description
5-Nov-2005 Lay out and cut first keel layer
12-Nov-2005 Lay out and cut next 2 keel layers.  Even some material left over from the two sheets of 3/4" plywood - hurray!
13-Nov-2005 Install lower pintle eyebolt in keel and lay out for glue-up.  For this, and the bow eye, a wing-nut was installed inside the middle layer to hold the bolt securely.  This will be embedded in construction adhesive.
Glue all three layers together using lead weights and screws to hold things together.   4 tubes of PL Premium were used for glueing.
Lower Eye Bolt Bow Eye Weighty Keel Other End
Feb 18 - Update.  I have concerns that my bow eye might be too low.  There's not a lot I can do about it though.
14-Nov-2005
21-Nov-2005
Use my long block plane to smooth the bottom and top of the keel.   Around the bow end, use a shorter plane.  Fill gaps with "boat in a can" (bondo).  Drill pilot hole for cockpit drain in keel.  Cut the slot in the front of the keel for the bottom.
Yarrrgghhh

UPDATE - It seems that when I faired the aft end of the keel, I ended up with a "dip" right in front of the stern post.  If I would have used a stick along the top of the keel to check I would have caught this at this time rather than when the keel was already 80% glued to the hull.

27-Nov-2005 Cut out the bottom - double check the length of the bottom against the length of the keel allowing for installation of the transom.
I even remembered to bevel the sides - the right way I hope
3-Dec-2005 Rip down scrap 3/4" plywood from the keel to make 1X4s.  Using these should give me a stronger joint that doesn't have an obvious split line.  Using PL Premium, glue up the bottom.  I left the joiners proud of the hull so that I can go back later with the circular saw and cut them to the correct bevel.  In the first picture you can see the layout lines I made when the bottom was cut out to align it to the keel.

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24-Dec-2005 / 31-Dec-2005 Cut out the deck - since it won't fit out of the basement door the decision must be made on how much of it will be pre-assembled.
Ready to camp!
6-Jan-2006 Glue butt block to underside of the foredeck, filling in the tiny missing pieces.
15-Jan-2006 Start a dolly for the boat and hope that it will fit out the door.
Set the hull on the dolly and put weights on it to try to reverse the warp in the plywood.
Cut out the main and forward bulkheads from 1/2" ply
Bulkheads
29-Jan-2006 Finish up the dolly so that it will support the keel.  Move the keel onto it and the hull bottom.  Hurray!  It fits properly with room at the stern for the transom.  It appears that I can add the stringers and do pretty much a full dry-fit in the basement.
Hello Dolly Stern
11-12 FEB-2006 I finally found all of the parts necessary for the cockpit drain.   It's a 1/4" galvanized pipe that expands out to a 3/8" opening.  I found plastic 3/8" plugs for the pipe and picked up a couple of spares.  I chose to use plastic plugs because I was concerned with a steel fitting rusting closed.  The plug should also give way before the pipe itself would break loose (I hope).  Glueing the drain pipe in place is one place where I'm going to work hard on making sure I have a very secure joint.

To make things "easier" I fabricated the log between the transom and the hull and deck out of 2X4 stock that was cut to the appropriate bevel and curve rather than bending pieces into place.  For the transom/deck joint, this required two 2X4s to be laminated together.  I intend to add an eye-bolt through the bottom one of these for a mooring cleat.  The bottom piece has been attached to the hull and the top one to the transom.  I did make a minor mistake and set up the top "stringer" to be even with the top of the transom.  According to the plans, the transom edge is supposed to go past the deck but this is only a 3/8" variation.
18-19-Feb-2006 In doing some test fitting I have discovered that the forward bulkhead is slightly too narrow.  I'll have to compensate by making the stringers stick out about 1/4" on each side at the top.  And then, after making it smaller I made it too small - sigh - this will be fixed when the deck is installed.
The stringers on the sides of the bottom were also installed.  Rather than set the bevels at 20 as per the plans, I took the bevels off the transom for the back section and the forward bulkhead for the forward section.  Hopefully this will save me time and effort when fairing later.
26-Feb-2006 Trim the bottom of the forward bulkhead to fit inside the side stringers.   Using my long jointing plane, smooth out the side of the bottom to match the stringers.
5-Mar-2006 Cut out and fair the rudder using one of my favourite tools - a hand plane.  Cut out the rudder box sides.  Route off the inside edges of the bottom side stringers.
11-Mar-2006 Add an eye-bolt to the transom.  This should be handy for securing the boat.
18-Mar-2006 With the help of my daughter Emma - make a template to establish the 93 angle on the forward bulkhead.  With the foredeck tacked in place, this established where to make the notch for the deck to fit into the stem.  Because the bottom is not yet secured to the keel I placed 200lbs of lead weights on the bottom to make it bend.   I also had to ensure that the stern was at the correct spot.
1 & 2-Apr-2006 Tack the entire deck in place for dry-fitting.  ACK! - The curve I put on the transom was too big - I'll have to cut some of the aft deck off to compensate - possibly related was also the fact that my deck was 1 1/4" too short as well.  I added a piece between the middle deck section and the aft section to compensate.  Boy - it takes up a lot of room in my basement now.  Once the glue dried up, I trimmed the new pieces and backer blocks to fit.  I also trimmed the aft deck to match the curve of the transom.
Big boat - small door A messy work area is a happy work area
9-Apr-2006 Put stringers on outside of forward section of side decks and top of centre bulkhead.  I noticed that even though the centre bulkhead is to be installed on an angle, the top of it where it meets the deck is not beveled.  I offset the stringers to allow for the angle involved.
14-Apr-2006 Add stringers to fore and aft decks.  Using a doubled 2X4 - make a joiner (too big to call a stringer) between the lazrette front and the deck.  A single 2X4 is glued to the deck for that joint.
Notch the top corners of the foreward bulkhead and the centre bulkhead to have them fit inside the stringers installed last week.
16-Apr-2006 Temporarially attach the lazrette to the hull bottom - this required the use of a couple of pipe clamps to force it down.  Once it was clamped I noticed that I installed it 1/4" to one side - oh well - that's not a big issue.
Use 1 1/2" stock to make stringers between the transom and sides - I want this joint to be especially strong.   Also add side stringers to the centre bulkhead - I added them to the cabin side by accident, but I'm sure all will be fine.  Only a couple of more things can be done in the basement and then it will be time to disassemble and move to the garage.
23-Apr-2006 Pick up a 1 1/2" wide X 20' long steel strip and counter-sink screw holes every 6 inches.  This will be used to protect the keel.
29-Apr-2006 Drill through the stem and install a small pipe to act as a wiring chase for the bow light.
30-Apr-2006 Disassemble the boat and move it into the garage.  Now for some final assembly!
 

DISCLAIMER: Because the construction of any boat is dependent on factors of materials and craftsmanship that are beyond my control, I can accept no responsibility for any item constructed based on information found on this web-site.

For more information, contact andrew@floatingbear.ca Last Updated July 13, 2006